Shoe and method of making the same



June 3, 1924. 1,495,985

M. F. BROGAN ET AL SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April 14 1919 to the trade as peaked-toe soles.

Patented June 3, 1924.

PATENT .orricaj UNITED STATES 'MICHAEL F. BROGAN AND JAMES A.,BROGAI\T, OF LAWRENCE, MASSQACHU SETTS, AS

SIGNO'RS 'JI'O UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, SEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

Application filed April 14, 1919. Serial N0.289,906.

To all whom it may concern: 1

Be it known that we, MICHAEL F. Bacon and JAMES A. BROGAN, citizens of the United States, both residing at Lawrence, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shoes and Methods of Making the Same; and we do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to shoes and the method of making them, and more particularly to the manufacture of turn shoes.

From time to time the styles of shoes change and periodically there is a large demand for shoes made on an extremely narrow toed last, such as was the vogue two decades ago. To build a shoe on these narrow toed lasts it is necessary to shape the sole with a much more pointed toe than has generally been in use such soles being known To-produce these soles many changes have been made in the sole fitting machines and in incorporating them in the shoe difficulty has been experienced in sewing around their peaked toes. It has been found that the operators of the inseaming machines are not permitted, by reason of the narrow space at the extreme point of the toe, to sew down the advance side of the toe with stitches that are inserted, as they should be, at right angles to the line of feed. Consequently, in order to give room forthe strokes of "the awl and needle the shoe is swung somewhat before it ought to be Asa result the stitches are distorted and the between substance weakened to such an extent that the shoe rips at the toe before its completion causing a cripple. This is particularly true in' making turn shoes because the step of turning them right side. out places a particularly severe strain on the inseam at the toe. Such cripples require the extra expense of cobbling before they can be marketed.

The object of the present invention is to eliminate the conditions which cause ripping of the inseam as just described, and thus avoid the production of cripples and consequently the additional expense incurred in cobbling them.

Accordingly the present inventors have conceived a novel construction of shoe and method of making it which will insure a secure attachment of the upper about peaked-toe soles ofthe present styles, an important feature of which resides in an improved, inseam, which will be explained in the following specification and then pointed out in the appended claims.

The preferred construction of the shoe and the method of making it is illustrated in the accompanying drawing in which, Figure 1 is a perspective of a peaked-toe turn shoe, after the presentvnovel inseaming operation hasbeen performed but before the upperhas been turned; 2 is a perspective of the novel turn sole which is incorporated in the shoe shown in Fig. 1;-and

on 'PATERSON, NEW TIER;

Fig. 3 is a cross section throughthe inseam at the toe. I y

In constructing the shoe illustrated in the drawings, the upper 10 is made in any of the usual styles and is assembled on the last in the' usualway, wrong side out (see Fig, 1 The sole 12,'however, has a distinctly novel feature shown to better advantage by F'ig. 2. In fitting the turn sole the usual marginal channel out 14,113 made,

but instead of fitting the sole with. a. con tinuous shoulder throughout the shank and forepart, there are providedshouldkers .16.

and 18. at the sides of "the sole, each. of

which terminates about one and one half inches to the rear of the tip of the toe. Between the forward ends of these shoulders and joining them about the toe end, of the sole is alip 20. This lip may be formed by leaving the string of sole material, ordi: narily separated from the sole by the shoulder knife, attached to the between substance.

The lip 20 is then raised and set inan upstanding position, as shown by Fig. 2, so-

that finally a continuous marginal shoulder is obtained, one portionhaving its original height and thus being of the usual form but the toe portion being formed by the upstanding lip. This sole isassembled on;

thelast with the upper, whichlatter is lasted into position over the margin 22 outside the shoulder by means of any of the lasting machines now in use. i

After the shoe has been lasted the upper is cord the staples are driven.

curred, this scam is discontinued and a different type of fastening device is employed which is so selected as to insure a tight inseam under the strain to which this portion of the shoe is subjected, and particularly the strain of the shoe turning operation.

The fastening device at the toe forms an important feature of the present invention and practice has determined that while a continuous or connected fastening is satisfactory at the rear of the toe it is more ad: vantageous to employ separated fasteners at the toe, for example, wire staples. The stapling at the toe is performed as a separate operation and by preference a machine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States to William J. Kelly, No. 1,214,317 dated January 30, 1917, is used. This machine drives staples 26 as the lasted shoe is fed past its staple forming mechanism, While simultaneously a reinforcing cord 28, as described in the patent, is fed into the angle of the shoulder, over which It is to assist, and make secure, this stapling operation that the lip 20 is formed at the toe of the sole. This lip provides a higher shoulder than is offered when the usual shoulder cut is made, thus enabling the increased thickness of the upper materials at the toe to be properly lasted in position for permanent securement, and eliminates the former tendency of the stapling machine to drive the staple high. The anvil of the stapling machine is entered in the channel, as disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States to John W. Cosgrove, No. 1,250,285 dated December 18, 1917, and the lip 20 ofiers such additional support to the upper materials at the toe that the staples may be driven through the between substance and successfully clenched, as illustrated by Fig. 3 of the drawing hereto attached. Moreover, such weakening of the between substance as is above explained is avoided because the staples are distinct from each other and may be inserted at such points and at such distances apart as are deemed best for the particular work in hand inasmuch as, in the type of stapling machine employed, the spacing is done by the operator and is not automatic or predetermined.

Themventors believe themselves to be the first to construct a turn shoe, of the prea method of manufacturing such a shoe having been specifically described, what is claimed as new, is :v

l. A shoe having the upper thereof secured to a channeled sole by an inseam comprising at each side of the sole a single, continuous thread seam terminating near the tip line, and a series of separate fastenings' extending through the between substance forward of that line.

2. A shoe comprising an upper, a sole having inner and outer channels forming a between substance, and an inseam constituting the permanent connection between the upper and the sole extending through the between substance substantially parallel to the face of the sole and comprising a single, continuous thread seam at each side of the sole which. terminates near the tip line, .and a series of metallic staples around the toe.

3. A shoe comprising an upper; a sole having a. marginal lip about its toe end, a

marginal shoulder along its sides and a marginal channel within said lip and shoulder forming a between substance; a continuous fastening element securing said upper to the between substanceexcept along said lip; and separated fasteners securing said upper to the between substance along said lip.

4. The method of n'iakingshoes which includes the steps of assembling a channeled sole and an upper, and of permanently securing the upper to the sole by stitching through its between substance along each side of the sole to a point near the tipline,

and stapling about the toe through the be tween substance of the sole between the ends of the stitched seams.

5. The method of making shoes which in eludes the steps of preparing the sole with a marginal lip about the toe end and a marginal shoulder without a lip extending nel for a portion of its length, and a lip extending parallel to another portion of the channel; assembling said sole with an upper; and securing said sole and upper together by different types of fastenings extending into the channel through said shoulder and lip respectively.

7. The method of making shoes which comprises preparing a sole having a marginal lip at its toe a marginal shoulder extending rearwardly from each end of said lip, and a channel parallel to both lip and shoulder; assembling said sole with an upper; and securing said sole and upper together by a sewed seam along said shoulder and by staples along said lip.

8. A sole for shoes having a marginal channel throughout the shank and forepart, a shoulder extending parallel to said channel for a portion of its length, and a lip extending parallel to another portion of the channel.

9. A sole for shoes having a marginal lip about its toe end, a marginal shoulder exof separated fasteners at the toe portion" thereof. 7

11. A turn shoe having the upper thereof secured to a channeled sole by staples at the toe portion of the sole and by a series of fasteners of a different kind at the sides of the sole, and having a reinforcing cord straddled by said staples.

12. That method of making shoes which comprises assembling a channeled sole and an upper, permanently securing the upper to the sole by stitching through the between substance thereof and inserting metallic fasteners about the toe only through the between substance.

MICHAEL F. BROGAN. JAMES A. BROGAN. 

